Crassula “Buddha’s Temple”

Some succulents are pretty. Some are easy to grow. Crassula ‘Buddha’s Temple’ is neither — and that is precisely why it has become one of the most coveted plants in the global succulent collector market. This man-made hybrid in the genus Crassula (family Crassulaceae), created in 1959 by the Californian botanist Myron Kimnach, forms a perfectly squared column of densely stacked, silvery-grey, upward-curving leaves that resembles nothing so much as the tiered roof of a Buddhist pagoda. The geometric precision is almost unsettling — it looks more like an architectural model than a living plant. Slow-growing, demanding about light and water, and with a monocarpic tendency inherited from one of its parents, ‘Buddha’s Temple’ rewards patience and attention with one of the most spectacular forms in the entire succulent world.

Origin and Parentage

Crassula ‘Buddha’s Temple’ is a hybrid of two South African species:

Crassula pyramidalis — a small, winter-growing, columnar species from the Karoo with tiny leaves stacked in four perfect ranks to form a squared column 12 mm wide. It contributed the four-ranked, geometric phyllotaxis and the monocarpic flowering habit.

Crassula perfoliata var. minor (syn. Crassula falcata) — the propeller plant, with large, grey-green, sickle-shaped leaves covered in a powdery bloom and spectacular scarlet flowers. It contributed the larger leaf size, the silvery-grey colouration, the powdery coating, and the potential for showy flowers.

The cross was made by Myron Kimnach in 1959. The resulting hybrid combines the architectural stacking of Crassula pyramidalis with the scale and colour of Crassula perfoliata var. minor, producing a plant that is essentially a dramatically enlarged, silvery version of the wild Crassula pyramidalis column — roughly four times wider and considerably taller.

The hybrid is also known under the cultivar names ‘Kimnachi’ and ‘Myron Kimnach’.

Botanical Description

The column

The defining feature is the squared columnar rosette. The leaves are flat, thick, heart-shaped, silvery-grey to greyish-green, and covered with a fine powdery bloom (farina) inherited from the Crassula perfoliata parent. Each leaf curls gently upward at the tip, and successive leaf pairs are rotated 90° from the pair below (decussate arrangement), creating a four-sided column when viewed from above — the “pagoda” silhouette that gives the plant its name.

Columns typically reach 10–15 cm tall and approximately 4 cm wide. Because Crassula pyramidalis is a variable species, some clones of ‘Buddha’s Temple’ produce five- or six-angled columns rather than the standard four — a natural variation rather than a defect. As the plant matures, branches emerge from the sides of the column, gradually producing a multi-columned cluster.

Flowers

When conditions are right, ‘Buddha’s Temple’ produces compact, rounded clusters of small, pink to nearly white flowers at the apex of each column, typically in spring and summer. The flowers can have a pleasant, spicy fragrance inherited from the Crassula pyramidalis parent. As with Crassula pyramidalis, flowering has a monocarpic tendency — the specific column that flowers may decline or die afterwards, though side branches typically carry on the plant.

Cultivation Guide

Light requirements

Bright light is essential. ‘Buddha’s Temple’ needs strong, preferably direct light for at least four to six hours per day to maintain its compact, squared form. Insufficient light causes the internodes to elongate and the tight stacking to loosen — etiolation that destroys the architectural quality that makes this plant desirable. A south or west-facing window, or an outdoor position in bright morning sun with some afternoon shade, is ideal.

However, intense midday sun in the hottest climates (above 35 °C) can scorch the farina-coated leaves. The balance is strong light without baking heat — consistent with the semi-arid South African mountain habitats of both parent species.

Temperature and hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 9b to 11b. Tolerates brief frost to approximately –3 °C in dry conditions, but prolonged cold is damaging. Not a candidate for year-round outdoor cultivation in cold-winter climates. Optimal growing temperatures are 18–27 °C during the day; avoid sustained temperatures below 7 °C. A cool-to-mild winter rest (10–15 °C) with reduced watering promotes compact growth and may encourage flowering.

Substrate

Very well-drained, gritty, porous. Use a mineral-heavy succulent mix: 60–70% inorganic (pumice, perlite, coarse sand) with 30–40% organic (quality potting compost). Target pH slightly acidic, around 6.0. The powdery farina and the tight leaf stacking mean that moisture trapped between the leaves can promote rot — a well-draining substrate that dries quickly is critical.

Watering

Water with caution. Use the soak-and-dry method: water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then allow the substrate to dry out completely before watering again. During the growing season (spring and summer), this typically means every 10–14 days depending on conditions. In winter, reduce to every three to four weeks or less. Cold, wet soil in winter is the fastest route to root rot.

Critically, avoid getting water on the leaves and trapped in the tight column. Water at soil level, or water from below by standing the pot in a shallow tray of water for a few minutes and then removing it. Water sitting in the leaf axils promotes rot and fungal infection and can wash off the protective farina.

Fertilising

Feed sparingly. A controlled-release fertiliser at the beginning of the growing season, or a dilute liquid feed (half strength) once a month during spring and summer, is sufficient. Excess nitrogen promotes soft, leggy growth.

Managing the monocarpic tendency

Like its parent Crassula pyramidalis, ‘Buddha’s Temple’ has a monocarpic tendency at the column level: a column that flowers may decline or die afterwards. The plant compensates by producing side branches. To maintain a collection of perfect, unbranched columns, propagate regularly from young, non-flowering offsets. If a column begins to elongate at the tip (the first sign of imminent flowering), take a cutting from a side branch as insurance before the flowering column completes its cycle.

Propagation

Stem cuttings / offsets — the primary method. Remove a side branch or offset with a clean, sharp blade. Allow the cut to callus for two to five days in a dry, shaded location. Plant in barely moist, well-draining mineral substrate. Rooting is slow — expect three to six weeks in warm conditions. Do not overwater during rooting; the cutting should not sit in moist substrate for extended periods.

Leaf cuttings — possible but slow and less reliable. Detach a healthy leaf, allow it to callus, and place on moist substrate. A miniature plantlet may eventually emerge, but the process takes considerably longer than stem cuttings and the success rate is lower.

Seed — theoretically possible if the hybrid flowers and sets viable seed, but rarely practical and not the standard propagation method.

Pests, Diseases, and Common Problems

Etiolation — the most common aesthetic problem. Loosened, stretched growth caused by insufficient light. Move to a brighter position immediately. Etiolated sections will not re-compact; cut back to compact growth and provide better light for the regrowth.

Root and stem rot — caused by overwatering, poor drainage, or water trapped in the leaf column. Prevention: water at soil level, use gritty substrate, ensure drainage holes are clear, and reduce watering in winter.

Mealybugs — can hide in the tight spaces between the stacked leaves, where they are difficult to detect and reach. Inspect regularly with a hand lens. Treat with isopropyl alcohol on a fine brush or a systemic insecticide for severe infestations.

Loss of farina — the silvery powdery coating is easily rubbed off by handling, water splash, or pest treatment. It does not regenerate on existing leaves. Handle the plant as little as possible and keep water off the foliage.

Slow growth — this is normal, not a problem. ‘Buddha’s Temple’ is inherently slow-growing. Patience is part of the experience. Do not attempt to accelerate growth with excess water or fertiliser — this produces etiolated, weak growth that defeats the purpose.

Toxicity

Crassula ‘Buddha’s Temple’ is listed as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses, consistent with the ASPCA’s genus-level listing for Crassula. Keep out of reach of pets.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Crassula ‘Buddha’s Temple’ a hybrid of?

‘Buddha’s Temple’ is a hybrid of Crassula pyramidalis (a small columnar species from the Karoo) and Crassula perfoliata var. minor (the propeller plant, also known as Crassula falcata). It was created by the American botanist Myron Kimnach in 1959. From Crassula pyramidalis it inherited the squared, four-ranked leaf stacking and the monocarpic tendency; from Crassula perfoliata var. minor it inherited the larger leaf size, silvery-grey colour, and powdery coating.

Why is my Buddha’s Temple getting leggy?

Etiolation — stretched, loosened growth — is caused by insufficient light. ‘Buddha’s Temple’ needs at least four to six hours of strong, preferably direct light per day to maintain its compact, squared column. Move it to a much brighter position immediately. The etiolated section will not re-compact; cut it back and let the plant produce new, tight growth under better light conditions.

Does Buddha’s Temple die after flowering?

The specific column that flowers may decline or die afterwards — this monocarpic tendency is inherited from the Crassula pyramidalis parent. However, the plant survives through side branches that develop from the base and from the sides of the flowering column. To ensure continuity, propagate from young, non-flowering offsets before a column flowers.

Why does my Buddha’s Temple have five or six sides instead of four?

This is a natural variation, not a defect. Because one of the parents — Crassula pyramidalis — is a variable species, different clones of ‘Buddha’s Temple’ can produce columns with four, five, or even six angles rather than the standard four. All forms are equally valid and healthy.

How fast does Buddha’s Temple grow?

Very slowly. This is an inherently slow-growing hybrid — expect only a few centimetres of height per year under optimal conditions. Slow growth is normal and part of the plant’s character. Do not attempt to accelerate growth with excess water or fertiliser, as this produces soft, etiolated growth that destroys the compact columnar form. Patience is essential.

Sources and Further Reading

  • LLIFLE — Crassula cv. Buddha’s Temple. llifle.com
  • World of Succulents — Crassula ‘Buddha’s Temple’. worldofsucculents.com
  • Kimnach, M. (1959). Original hybridisation of Crassula pyramidalis × Crassula perfoliata var. minor.
  • Tölken, H.R. (1985). Crassulaceae. In: Leistner, O.A. (ed.), Flora of Southern Africa, Vol. 14. Botanical Research Institute, Pretoria.
  • Eggli, U. (ed.) (2003). Illustrated Handbook of Succulent Plants: Crassulaceae. Springer, Berlin.
  • Rowley, G.D. (2003). Crassula: A Grower’s Guide. Cactus & Co. Libri, Venegono Superiore.
  • ASPCA Animal Poison Control — Jade Plant. aspca.org