Succulents have become fixtures of modern interior design. Their sculptural forms, low maintenance requirements and remarkable ability to survive neglect make them the ideal companions for apartments, offices and bright living spaces. But not every succulent is suited to life indoors. Some demand the intense, unfiltered sunlight that only an outdoor setting can provide. Others, however, are genuinely well adapted to the filtered light and dry air of a typical home.
Choosing the right species is the single most important decision you will make. The first mistake most people make is falling for a beautiful plant at a garden centre without knowing whether it can survive the actual conditions of their home. A sun-loving species placed on a dim shelf is doomed from the start — no amount of careful watering will save it.
This selection of twenty-five species brings together the succulents best suited to indoor cultivation. Each one has been chosen for its proven ability to thrive in the conditions of a real home — limited light, dry air, irregular watering — not merely for how it looks in a photograph. For every species, you will find a concise care card with the key parameters: light requirements, watering frequency, minimum temperature, mature size and difficulty level. The accompanying text explains what makes the species special, what pitfalls to avoid and how to get the best from it in your home.
The selection spans a wide range: ultra-tough species for complete beginners, trailing succulents for hanging planters, compact cacti for windowsills, architectural plants that can anchor a room, and a few collector’s favourites for those seeking something out of the ordinary.
1. Crassula ovata — Jade plant
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry between waterings |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 60–100 cm / 2–3 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
The jade plant is arguably the most widely grown indoor succulent in the world. Its glossy, oval, fleshy leaves are carried on a woody trunk that thickens with age, giving mature specimens the appearance of a miniature tree. Crassula ovata tolerates missed waterings, copes with indirect light (though it prefers direct sun) and can live for decades in a pot. Old specimens reach a metre in height indoors and will flower in winter if given a cool rest period. It is the ideal first succulent.
2. Aloe vera
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate in summer, very little in winter |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 30–60 cm / 1–2 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Aloe vera is the most recognisable succulent on Earth, valued as much for its cosmetic and medicinal properties as for its ease of cultivation. Its long, toothed leaves form an upright rosette that readily produces offsets. It thrives in front of a well-lit window and tolerates heated interiors. Its only weakness indoors is a tendency to etiolate if light is insufficient: the rosette opens out and the leaves splay. Place it as close as possible to a south- or west-facing window.
3. Haworthiopsis fasciata — Zebra plant
| Light | Bright indirect light to partial shade |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry completely |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 8–12 cm / 3–5 in diameter |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Long classified as Haworthia fasciata, this compact South African succulent is one of the best plants for low-light interiors. Its dark green, triangular leaves are decorated with raised white horizontal bands that give it its common name. It stays small — roughly ten centimetres across — and produces numerous offsets over time. It will happily sit on an east-facing or even a north-facing windowsill, provided the light remains bright. This is the plant to recommend to anyone who believes they do not have enough light for succulents.
4. Sansevieria trifasciata — Snake plant
| Light | Tolerates shade, prefers bright light |
| Watering | Very infrequent, every 2–4 weeks |
| Minimum temperature | 10 °C / 50 °F |
| Mature size | 60–120 cm / 2–4 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Now reclassified under Dracaena by taxonomists, the snake plant remains universally known by its former name. Its stiff, upright, sword-shaped leaves — edged in yellow in the popular ‘Laurentii’ cultivar — easily reach sixty centimetres to over a metre in height. Sansevieria trifasciata is quite possibly the most tolerant houseplant in existence: it withstands shade, dry air, prolonged neglect and poorly ventilated rooms. Its only enemy is overwatering, which causes rapid rhizome rot.
5. Echeveria elegans
| Light | Full sun to very bright light |
| Watering | Moderate in summer, almost none in winter |
| Minimum temperature | 0 °C / 32 °F (briefly) |
| Mature size | 10–15 cm / 4–6 in diameter |
| Difficulty | Easy |
With its perfectly symmetrical rosette of blue-grey leaves, Echeveria elegans is the archetype of the decorative succulent. It is hugely popular in arrangements and open terrariums. Indoors, however, it demands very bright light — a south-facing windowsill is the minimum. Without sufficient light, the rosette opens and loses its compact form. It propagates easily from leaf cuttings and regularly produces lateral offsets.
6. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana — Flaming Katy
| Light | Bright, with some direct sun |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry between waterings |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 20–40 cm / 8–16 in tall |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is the quintessential flowering succulent. Its dense clusters of small blooms — red, pink, yellow, orange or white — last for several weeks, making it one of the best-selling houseplants worldwide. It is often treated as disposable after flowering, but it will rebloom readily if given a period of short days (ten hours of light maximum for six weeks) in autumn. The foliage is fleshy, dark green and glossy, attractive even when the plant is not in flower.
7. Senecio rowleyanus — String of pearls
| Light | Bright to bright indirect |
| Watering | Moderate, sensitive to overwatering |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | Trails to 60–90 cm / 2–3 ft |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
String of pearls is one of the most photogenic succulents in existence. Its thread-like stems carry perfectly spherical leaves that cascade in elegant curtains, making it ideal for hanging planters or high shelves. Senecio rowleyanus is, however, more delicate than it looks: it is sensitive to overwatering (the pearls turn soft and translucent) and to insufficient light (the stems stretch with gaps between the pearls). A bright window and measured watering are the keys to success.
8. Gasteria bicolor
| Light | Bright indirect to partial shade |
| Watering | Moderate |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 10–20 cm / 4–8 in tall |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Gasteria are the shade succulents par excellence. Native to the rocky understorey of South Africa, they tolerate light levels that most succulents would refuse. Gasteria bicolor forms rosettes of thick leaves arranged in a fan that spirals with age, mottled with white on a dark green background. It stays compact, produces offsets freely and demands almost nothing. It is the ideal succulent for a north-facing room or an office without direct sunlight.
9. Haworthia cooperi
| Light | Bright indirect, avoid harsh direct sun |
| Watering | Moderate |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 5–8 cm / 2–3 in tall |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Haworthia cooperi is one of the most fascinating succulents to observe up close. Its plump, globular leaves are translucent at the tip, allowing light to reach the photosynthetic cells buried deeper within — an adaptation to a semi-buried existence in its native habitat. The visual effect is striking: the leaves appear to be made of jelly or blown glass. This species stays tiny, rarely exceeds five centimetres in height and multiplies easily by division.
10. Euphorbia trigona — African milk tree
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate in summer, reduced in winter |
| Minimum temperature | 10 °C / 50 °F |
| Mature size | Up to 2 m / 6.5 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Often mistaken for a cactus, Euphorbia trigona is actually a succulent spurge from West Africa. Its triangular, upright, branching stems can exceed two metres in height indoors, making it a major architectural plant. The cultivar ‘Rubra’ offers spectacular purple foliage. Be warned, however: like all euphorbias, it contains a white latex that is highly irritant to skin and eyes. Handle with gloves and keep it away from children and pets.
11. Rhipsalis baccifera — Mistletoe cactus
| Light | Bright indirect, no direct sun |
| Watering | Regular, more frequent than most succulents |
| Minimum temperature | 10 °C / 50 °F |
| Mature size | Trails to 1–2 m / 3–6 ft |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Rhipsalis baccifera looks nothing like a typical cactus. This epiphytic cactus from tropical rainforests produces long, thin, trailing stems with no spines whatsoever. It grows naturally clinging to tree branches in the humid forests of South America and Africa. Indoors, it is best displayed in a hanging planter and appreciates slightly more humidity than other succulents. It is one of the rare succulents that genuinely dislikes direct sunlight — diffused light suits it perfectly.
12. Hoya kerrii — Sweetheart plant
| Light | Bright indirect to some direct sun |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry between waterings |
| Minimum temperature | 10 °C / 50 °F |
| Mature size | Climbs to 2–4 m / 6–13 ft with support |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Hoya kerrii is widely sold as a single heart-shaped leaf in a small pot, making it a popular novelty gift. But with patience and good light, a specimen with a node will develop into a vigorous climbing plant with thick, fleshy, heart-shaped leaves and clusters of fragrant, waxy flowers. Though technically not a succulent in the strictest botanical sense, its succulent leaves and drought tolerance place it firmly in the repertoire of indoor growers. The key is to buy a cutting with a visible stem node — a single leaf without one will survive for years but never grow.
13. Sedum morganianum — Burro’s tail
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry well |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | Trails to 60–90 cm / 2–3 ft |
| Difficulty | Easy (but mechanically fragile) |
The long, pendulous stems of Sedum morganianum, densely packed with plump blue-green drop-shaped leaves, make it one of the most beautiful trailing succulents for hanging planters. Stems can reach sixty centimetres or more, creating a spectacular cascade effect. The only challenge is the mechanical fragility of the leaves: they detach at the slightest knock. Avoid moving the plant unnecessarily. Fallen leaves root easily and produce new plants — a natural form of propagation.
14. Graptoveria ‘Fred Ives’
| Light | Full sun to very bright light |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry |
| Minimum temperature | -1 °C / 30 °F (briefly) |
| Mature size | 20–30 cm / 8–12 in diameter |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Graptoveria ‘Fred Ives’ is an intergeneric hybrid — a cross between Graptopetalum paraguayense and an Echeveria — and one of the most forgiving rosette-forming succulents available. Its large, open rosettes shift colour dramatically with light and temperature: pinkish-lavender in strong sun, blue-grey in lower light, with copper or bronze tones in cool weather. It grows faster and larger than most Echeveria, tolerates a wider range of conditions and propagates effortlessly from leaf or stem cuttings. For anyone who loves the rosette look but struggles to keep Echeveria compact indoors, ‘Fred Ives’ is the answer.
15. Echeveria agavoides
| Light | Full sun to very bright light |
| Watering | Moderate in summer, almost none in winter |
| Minimum temperature | 0 °C / 32 °F (briefly) |
| Mature size | 10–15 cm / 4–6 in diameter |
| Difficulty | Easy |
With its stiff, pointed leaves tipped in vivid red, Echeveria agavoides looks like a miniature agave — which is exactly what its species name implies. The rosette is dense, symmetrical and bright green, with red margins that intensify under strong light. It is one of the more resilient Echeveria species for indoor growing, handling slightly less light than many of its relatives. The cultivar ‘Lipstick’ is particularly prized for its pronounced red edging.
16. Ceropegia woodii — String of hearts
| Light | Bright indirect to some direct sun |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry well |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | Trails to 1–2 m / 3–6 ft |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Ceropegia woodii is one of the most popular trailing houseplants of the past decade, and with good reason. Its slender, wiry stems carry pairs of small, heart-shaped leaves — silvery green on top, purple beneath — that dangle in graceful curtains from a hanging pot or high shelf. The plant grows from a small tuberous caudex at soil level and can produce aerial tubers along its stems, which root on contact with soil. Though not a succulent in the strict sense, its tuberous roots and drought tolerance earn it a place in any succulent-friendly collection. It tolerates a range of light conditions and is remarkably forgiving of neglect.
17. Lithops aucampiae — Living stone
| Light | Full sun, essential |
| Watering | Very little, specific annual cycle |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 2–4 cm / 1–1.5 in tall |
| Difficulty | Difficult |
Lithops are extraordinary succulents that mimic the pebbles of their native environment — a camouflage strategy against grazing animals. Lithops aucampiae is one of the most commonly available species. Each plant consists of two fused leaves, largely buried in the substrate, with only the translucent upper surface exposed to capture light. Growing Lithops successfully requires strict respect for their annual cycle: no watering during the splitting phase (when new leaves form inside the old pair) and an almost entirely mineral substrate. This is not a beginner’s plant, but it captivates everyone who encounters it.
18. Pachyphytum oviferum — Moonstones
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate, allow to dry |
| Minimum temperature | 0 °C / 32 °F (briefly) |
| Mature size | 10–15 cm / 4–6 in tall |
| Difficulty | Easy |
The leaves of Pachyphytum oviferum are among the plumpest in the succulent world: oval, pillowy and coated in a chalky, pinkish-white bloom that gives them the appearance of pastel sweets or smooth river pebbles. This Mexican species forms loose rosettes on short stems and propagates very easily from leaf cuttings. The main pitfall is touching the leaves: the protective farina does not regenerate once rubbed off. Handle the plant as little as possible.
19. Aeonium arboreum
| Light | Full sun to very bright light |
| Watering | Moderate in winter (growing), reduced in summer (dormant) |
| Minimum temperature | 2 °C / 35 °F |
| Mature size | 60–120 cm / 2–4 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Aeonium arboreum is a shrubby succulent from the Canary Islands that can exceed a metre in height. Its flat rosettes, carried at the tips of branching, woody stems, create the silhouette of a small exotic tree. The cultivar ‘Zwartkop’ (or ‘Schwarzkopf’), with its deep purple-black foliage, is one of the most dramatic succulents in cultivation. Be aware that Aeonium follow a reversed cycle — they grow actively in winter and shed their lower leaves in summer. Do not be alarmed if the plant looks bare in midsummer: this is normal.
20. Euphorbia milii — Crown of thorns
| Light | Full sun to very bright light |
| Watering | Moderate |
| Minimum temperature | 10 °C / 50 °F |
| Mature size | 30–60 cm / 1–2 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Euphorbia milii is one of the few succulents capable of flowering almost continuously indoors, provided it receives enough light. Its small flowers — actually colourful bracts in red, pink, yellow or white — appear in pairs at the tips of thorny branches. The plant is shrubby, spiny and can reach sixty centimetres in height. Like all euphorbias, it exudes an irritant latex when wounded. Despite its thorns, it is a robust, undemanding and remarkably floriferous houseplant.
21. Portulacaria afra — Elephant bush
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate in summer, reduced in winter |
| Minimum temperature | 2 °C / 35 °F |
| Mature size | 30–100 cm / 1–3 ft indoors |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
Named “elephant bush” because elephants feed on it in its native South Africa, Portulacaria afra is a succulent shrub with small, round, glossy leaves carried on reddish stems. It responds superbly to pruning and is one of the most popular subjects for succulent bonsai. Indoors, it tolerates a wide range of conditions and forgives missed waterings with good grace. The variegated form, with cream-edged leaves, is particularly decorative.
22. Mammillaria elongata — Lady finger cactus
| Light | Full sun |
| Watering | Infrequent, allow to dry completely |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 10–15 cm / 4–6 in tall, clumping |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Mammillaria elongata is one of the cacti best suited to indoor life. Its cylindrical stems, covered in fine golden or copper spines, cluster into dense mounds that gradually fill the pot. The spring flowering produces small cream or pink flowers arranged in a ring around the crown of each stem. It is a robust species of reasonable growth rate, easy to keep happy, and an excellent gateway into the world of cacti.
23. Kalanchoe daigremontiana — Mother of thousands
| Light | Bright to full sun |
| Watering | Moderate |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | Up to 1 m / 3 ft tall |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
This Madagascan species is famous for its prodigious ability to self-propagate. The margins of its lance-shaped leaves produce tiny, fully formed plantlets complete with roots, which drop off and establish themselves in any nearby pot or crevice. Kalanchoe daigremontiana can reach a metre in height and offers an upright, architectural habit. It is virtually impossible to kill — which is both its main appeal and its most common criticism, since it can become invasive in a collection.
24. Adenium obesum — Desert rose
| Light | Full sun, essential |
| Watering | Moderate in summer, none in winter |
| Minimum temperature | 10 °C / 50 °F |
| Mature size | 30–60 cm / 1–2 ft indoors |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
The desert rose is a caudiciform succulent from East Africa whose swollen, smooth, sculptural trunk stores large water reserves. Adenium obesum produces spectacular flowers resembling oleander blooms in shades of pink, red and white. Indoors in temperate climates, it demands the maximum possible light — a south-facing window is essential. In winter it drops its leaves and enters complete dormancy: stop watering entirely until growth resumes in spring. The caudex swells with age and gives the plant a unique, bonsai-like character.
25. Schlumbergera truncata — Thanksgiving cactus
| Light | Bright indirect, no direct sun |
| Watering | Regular during growth and flowering |
| Minimum temperature | 5 °C / 41 °F |
| Mature size | 30–40 cm / 12–16 in wide |
| Difficulty | Easy |
Often sold as “Christmas cactus” — though the true Christmas cactus is the closely related Schlumbergera bridgesii — this is an epiphytic cactus from the Brazilian rainforest, quite unlike desert cacti. Its flattened, segmented, trailing stems burst into tubular flowers — pink, red, white or bicolour — in late autumn and early winter, making it one of the few succulents that flowers naturally during the cold season. Schlumbergera truncata dislikes direct sun, prefers a slightly moister substrate than desert cacti and appreciates some atmospheric humidity. To trigger flowering, it needs long nights and cool temperatures starting in early autumn. It is a long-lived plant that can bloom reliably for decades.
Best practices for growing succulents indoors
The twenty-five species above each have their own personality, but their success indoors rests on a common foundation of good practice. Whether you grow a single plant on your desk or a full collection along a windowsill, these principles will prevent the vast majority of failures.
Light is everything
Light is the number one limiting factor indoors. Even the brightest room in your home delivers far less light intensity than the outdoors. Place your succulents as close as possible to your brightest window — ideally within thirty centimetres of the glass. Light intensity falls off rapidly with distance: at one metre from the window, it may have halved.
Rotate your pots a quarter turn each week. Without this rotation, the plant grows asymmetrically, leaning towards the light source. This simple habit is enough to maintain balanced growth.
If your home lacks natural light — a north-facing apartment, an obstructed window, a room set back from the exterior — horticultural LED grow lights are a sound investment. Twelve to fourteen hours per day, positioned twenty to thirty centimetres above the plants, will transform your results. Modern grow lights come in discreet formats — standard bulbs, clip-on lamps, adhesive light strips that mount under a shelf — and integrate easily into any interior.
Watering: less is more
Overwatering kills far more succulents than underwatering. Indoors, evaporation is low, light is limited and photosynthesis is reduced — so the plant uses much less water than you might expect. The golden rule is to let the substrate dry out completely between waterings. Push a finger or a wooden skewer into the soil to check: if it comes out damp, wait.
When you do water, water thoroughly. The water should pass through the entire substrate and drain freely from the bottom holes. A shallow watering that only wets the surface is counterproductive: it encourages weak, shallow roots. After watering, always empty the saucer. Standing water at the bottom of the pot is the most common cause of root rot.
In winter, cut back watering dramatically. Most succulents enter dormancy between November and February. A light watering every three to four weeks is enough to keep them alive without encouraging unwanted growth in low light.
Substrate: drainage, always drainage
Standard potting compost is the enemy of succulents. Too rich and too dense, it holds moisture far too long and ends up suffocating roots. A good succulent substrate must be porous and allow water to flow through within seconds.
The simplest recipe: mix equal parts quality potting compost, coarse horticultural grit or perlite, and pumice or volcanic rock. If you buy a commercial cactus mix, check that it actually contains a significant mineral fraction — many off-the-shelf blends are little more than peat with a handful of sand and are not free-draining enough for reliable long-term culture.
Pots: drainage holes are non-negotiable
A pot without a drainage hole is a death trap for a succulent, regardless of whatever gravel layer you place at the bottom. If you want to use a decorative pot without holes, use it as a cachepot around a smaller nursery pot that does have drainage. Remove the plant from the cachepot to water it and let it drain fully before putting it back.
Terracotta pots are the best friends of indoor succulents. Their porosity helps the substrate dry faster and reduces the risk of rot. Plastic pots work but require less frequent watering. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the plant — one to two centimetres of clearance around the root ball is sufficient. An oversized pot holds a disproportionate volume of damp substrate, especially indoors where evaporation is limited.
Managing indoor climate: heating, air conditioning and humidity
The ambient temperature of a typical home suits the vast majority of indoor succulents. However, modern climate control systems can create specific challenges that are worth understanding.
Forced-air heating and central heating can push indoor humidity well below 30% in winter — drier than many deserts. While most succulents tolerate dry air, epiphytic species like Rhipsalis and Schlumbergera may struggle. For these, occasional misting or placement near a water tray helps. Avoid placing any succulent directly above or next to a radiator, heating vent or baseboard heater: the concentrated heat desiccates the plant unevenly and can cause localised tissue damage.
Air conditioning presents a different problem. The steady cool draught from an AC unit can chill a tropical succulent below its comfort zone, and the constant air movement accelerates moisture loss from the substrate. If you run air conditioning regularly, keep succulents away from the direct airflow and monitor substrate moisture more closely — the soil may dry faster than expected, even though temperatures are lower.
The most overlooked factor is ventilation. Stagnant air promotes fungal disease and pest outbreaks, particularly mealybugs. Open a window for a few minutes each day, even in winter. If you grow a large number of plants in a confined space — a shelf unit, a conservatory, a grow-light setup — a small fan running at low speed will dramatically improve air circulation around the foliage.
Fertilising: light and infrequent
Succulents do not need heavy feeding, but a light application during the growing season improves vigour and colour. Use a liquid fertiliser formulated for cacti and succulents, diluted to half the recommended strength, every four to six weeks from spring to early autumn. Never fertilise in winter. Excess fertiliser — particularly nitrogen — causes soft, distorted growth that is more prone to disease.
Regular inspection: prevention over cure
Make a habit of inspecting your plants each week — when you rotate the pots, for instance. Look for signs of mealybugs (cottony white clusters, small brown scales), etiolation (stretching stems, widely spaced leaves), rot (soft base, blackening) or dehydration (wrinkled, shrivelled leaves). A problem caught early takes minutes to fix. A problem ignored for weeks can cost you the plant.
New acquisitions deserve special attention. When you buy a plant from a garden centre or online, isolate it for two to three weeks before placing it among your existing collection. Inspect the undersides of leaves, leaf axils and the substrate surface carefully for pests — root mealybugs in particular are common on commercially grown plants and easily go unnoticed until they have spread.
Match the species to your window
Not all twenty-five species on this list have the same light needs. Matching the species to the orientation of your window is the single most impactful decision you can make.
A south-facing window (north-facing in the Southern Hemisphere) opens up the full range — nearly every species on this list will perform well, including the most demanding ones like Adenium obesum, Lithops aucampiae and Euphorbia milii.
An east- or west-facing window suits species that tolerate a few hours of direct sun without requiring it all day: Crassula ovata, Aloe vera, Echeveria agavoides, Portulacaria afra, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Sedum morganianum, Hoya kerrii, Ceropegia woodii.
A north-facing window or a room without direct sun limits the options to shade-tolerant species: Haworthiopsis fasciata, Haworthia cooperi, Gasteria bicolor, Sansevieria trifasciata, Rhipsalis baccifera. These five are your best allies if light is your primary constraint.
Where to start
If you are new to succulents, begin with the species rated “very easy” in this guide: Crassula ovata, Sansevieria trifasciata, Haworthiopsis fasciata, Gasteria bicolor, Portulacaria afra and Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. They will forgive your early mistakes and give you the confidence to expand your collection towards more challenging species.
Over time, you will learn to read your plants: a rosette opening up is asking for more light, wrinkled leaves need water, a softening base has had too much. It is this learning through observation that makes succulent growing so rewarding — and that turns a simple plant on a shelf into a companion for years to come.